In Saint-Tropez, a Coastal Town on the French Riviera, ‘I Have Just Discovered Happiness,’ to Quote Painter Paul Signac
- The vibrant art galleries in town brought to mind the legendary masters who fell in love with this spectacular Mediterranean light long before it became a playground for the jet set.
We boarded a Riviera Lines ferry from Golfe-Juan to Saint-Tropez, France, via Île Sainte-Marguerite and Cannes, opting for clean indoor window seats to escape the intense wind and sun while enjoying the scenic two-hour coastal journey. The cabin soundtrack perfectly set the local mood, starting with classic French pop and chansons by Carla Bruni and Edith Piaf before transitioning to Ibiza-style deep house as we approached our destination. The high-energy beats sparked nostalgic memories of Boney M.’s Rasputin and the cheerful 1964 tune Douliou douliou Saint-Tropez, which celebrates a carefree, bohemian summer lifestyle where an old pair of blue jeans is enough, and everyone walks barefoot.
Stepping onto the shores of Saint-Tropez, the sun-drenched coastal village instantly enchanted me, its pastel-hued buildings adorned with French-blue shutters, purple bougainvillea, jasmine, and climbing ivy. The vibrant festivities of a three-day spring celebration magnified the village’s old-world charm by merging Les Bravades and Les Chefs à Saint-Tropez. A lively marching band filled the air, and every boutique window proudly displayed the town’s historic red-and-white colors in shirts, bows, flags, and dresses, echoed by red carnations and white gladioli blooming at every outdoor cafe.
Walking among locals dressed in traditional French printed cotton skirts, bonnets, and red breeches, I felt completely immersed in the village’s rich lore. Red and white checkered flags fluttered overhead, honoring Saint Torpes of Pisa—a Roman officer beheaded by Emperor Nero in 68 A.D., whose boat miraculously washed ashore here with a dog and a rooster. Sitting on the harbor steps, I reflected on how this paradise was rebuilt by 21 Genovese families in 1470 to defend its coast against pirates, only to be destroyed centuries later during World War II.
The town’s modern energy was equally infectious. Crowds lined up outside La Tarte Tropézienne for a taste of the famous brioche pastry filled with secret cream. Brigitte Bardot, while filming “And God Created Woman” (the movie that put this village on the global map), named the tarte.
The town’s modern energy was equally infectious. Crowds lined up outside La Tarte Tropézienne for a taste of the famous brioche pastry filled with secret cream. Brigitte Bardot, while filming “And God Created Woman” (the movie that put this village on the global map), named the tarte. We tried a slice in her honor, but didn’t quite love it. Still, the star’s presence lingers everywhere, having called this coast home until her recent passing in 2025.
We spent the afternoon wandering past fresh produce stalls and exploring the old police station, now the highly visited Musée de la Gendarmerie et du Cinéma. After admiring the beautiful lobby and stylish beach club at the Hôtel de Paris, we ducked into independent art galleries. I was captivated by gorgeous hand-painted furniture, decorative screens, hand-embroidered baby dresses, and Moroccan tableware painted with monkeys, parrots, and tulips.
The vibrant art immediately brought to mind the legendary masters who fell in love with this spectacular Mediterranean light long before it became a playground for the jet set. At the Musée de l’Annonciade, we learned how Paul Signac sailed into the port in 1892, establishing his studio at Villa la Hune and inviting avant-garde contemporaries like Henri Matisse and André Derain to paint the dazzling coast. They captured the shifting sea using radical Pointillist dots and fierce, unblended Fauvist colors straight from the tube. Inspired by their brilliance, a surge of creative energy took hold of me, and I decided right then to paint some of my own photographs in that same expressive style when we get home.
Seeking a bit of quiet adventure, we climbed up to the 16th-century Citadelle, which has guarded the bay for over 400 years, before walking a portion of the Sentier du Littoral coastal path. The winding cliffside trail offered breathtaking views of secluded coves and impossibly clear water.
Hungry from our trek, we found a table in a lively alleyway at Le Canastel on Rue des Feniers. Sitting beside a happy French-Italian family enjoying a multi-course Sunday brunch with fine wine, we devoured a scrumptious Neapolitan pizza topped with artichokes and truffles alongside a rich eggplant parmigiana. Immersed in the unpretentious, timeless air of the French Riviera, we eventually boarded our return ferry, happily humming Douliou douliou Saint-Tropez all the way home.
With roots in Georgia and the Bay Area, and her heart still tethered to a childhood mango tree in Mumbai, India, Monita Soni approaches writing as a contemplative practice. A path to honor humanity. She has published hundreds of movie reviews, book critiques, poems, and essays, and contributed to combined literary works. Her two books are “My Light Reflections” and “Flow Through My Heart.” You can hear her commentaries on Sundial Writers Corner, WLRH 89.3 FM.