A Comparative Reflection On Pilgrimage: Varanasi and Tirta Empul
My last visit to the sacred sites of the ancient city of Varanasi in India and the recent sojourn to Tirta Empul in Ubud, Bali brought me face-to-face with two of the most revered places of pilgrimage in the Hindu world. Both locations — despite their geographic, cultural, and historical differences — serve as focal points for spiritual purification, deeply intertwined with the Hindu beliefs of moksha (liberation) and the cleansing of sin. However, my reflections on these experiences, influenced by my background in microbiology, left me contemplating not just the rituals themselves, but the delicate balance between ancient faith and modern concerns.
Varanasi, India: The Sacred Ganges
Kashi, the City of Gods, perched on the banks of the Holy Ganges, is considered one of the holiest places for Hindus, where the river is believed to have the power to grant moksha — liberation from the cycle of rebirth. The rituals here are grand and awe-inspiring, especially during the evening Ganga Aarti at the Manikarnika ghat with devotees from all over the world. As my sister and I stood on the ancient steps of the river, we offered our prayers to the departed soul of our beloved father by setting a lit clay oil lamp on a small pipal leaf boat. This act, alongside dipping a toe into the water, felt like a connection to an ancient, timeless rhythm — a river of life, death, and salvation.
However, the practical side of me, deeply influenced by my microbiological studies, could not ignore the state of the river. Pollution from human activity and the sheer number of people bathing alongside us made me hesitate. How many achieve moksha? Does immersion in these waters truly purify the soul when the river is so visibly contaminated? These thoughts lingered, but they did not dampen the spiritual weight of the moment. I realized that for many, the act of faith is what matters, regardless of the physical state of the river. The Ganges, despite its pollution, remains a symbol of purification for millions.
Tirta Empul, Bali: The Holy Springs
In contrast to the vast, flowing Ganges, Tirta Empul in Bali offers a more localized, intimate form of water purification. The temple is built around a natural spring, where worshippers line up to take part in a ritual called Melukat. Standing under a series of gushing fountains, devotees bathe to cleanse themselves of impurities, negative energies, and past sins. The atmosphere at Tirta Empul is both serene and vibrant, as locals and foreigners alike come to partake in this ritual.
My experience at Tirta Empul mirrored my time in Varanasi in many ways—both sites were crowded with people eager to cleanse their souls in sacred waters. However, much like my hesitation to fully immerse myself in the Ganges, I found myself reluctant to wait in line for hours at Tirta Empul. The same microbiological concerns resurfaced, as the springs, though flowing constantly, were shared by a large number of people. I couldn’t help but wonder if a more symbolic gesture, such as sprinkling a capful of water, might serve the same purpose without compromising hygiene. On the other hand the peaceful atmosphere with a pond full of koi fish and Balinese toddlers feeding the plump saffron fish filled my heart with joy. The bells of a ritual procession as it circled the hill with Gods in palanquins, vibrant attires and white umbrellas created a visual feast.
Comparing the Sacred Waters
While both Varanasi and Tirta Empul center around the theme of purification through sacred water, the nature of their rituals reflects the unique cultures and landscapes from which they emerge.
- Varanasi is steeped in centuries of ritual, where the Ganges is more than just a river — it is a lifeline connecting the past, present, and future. The experience at the ghats is profound, almost overwhelming in its spiritual significance. Bathing in the Ganges is an act of surrender to faith, to a belief in the river’s divine power to cleanse and liberate, despite the modern-day reality of pollution.
- Tirta Empul, though smaller and more localized, offers a similar spiritual experience but within a different context. The natural springs, set against the lush landscape of Bali, seem purer by comparison, but the communal aspect of bathing still gave me pause. The emphasis here is on ritual cleansing for the living, rather than the association with death and liberation that the Ganges holds.
Reflections on Faith, Ritual, and Modern Realities
As I reflected on both experiences, I couldn’t help but question the effectiveness of full immersion in these waters — both sacred yet compromised in some ways by modernity. Does the physical act of bathing cleanse sins and ensure liberation, or is it the faith and intention behind the ritual that truly matter? For me, the answer lies somewhere in between.
In both Varanasi and Tirta Empul, I chose to engage with the rituals in ways that felt personally meaningful while acknowledging my concerns about hygiene. The act of setting a lamp on the Ganges or sprinkling a bit of water from Tirta Empul was, to me, equally potent as full immersion. It was a gesture of respect for the tradition without disregarding the reality of the present-day conditions.
There is a quiet power in these symbolic gestures. By adjusting the way we interact with sacred waters — perhaps by sprinkling rather than submerging—we might be able to preserve these rituals for future generations while also maintaining a sense of reverence for the health of the waters themselves.
Conclusion: A Symbolic Approach to Purification
My experiences in both Varanasi and Tirta Empul have left me with a deeper understanding of the power of sacred place, the energy of hope, collective ritual and the enduring belief in purification through water. However, they also remind me that these ancient practices must evolve alongside our awareness of environmental and health concerns. Perhaps the path to moksha or spiritual cleansing does not rely solely on the physical act of immersion but on the intent behind it.
In both places, the waters remain sacred, but it is up to us to ensure they stay that way for generations to come. Whether through full immersion or a symbolic sprinkling, the essence of these rituals —faith, devotion, and the quest for spiritual purity — remains intact.
With one foot in Huntsville, Alabama, the other in her birth home India, and a heart steeped in humanity, writing is a contemplative practice for Monita Soni. She has published hundreds of poems, movie reviews, book critiques, and essays and contributed to combined literary works. Her two books are My Light Reflections and Flow through My Heart. You can hear her commentaries on Sundial Writers Corner WLRH 89.3FM.